Saturday, 16 September 2017

Shifting from Shipyard to Fitting-Out Berth

I decided to shift the boat from the the greenhouse-shipyard to a fitting-out berth. Unfortunately the fitting-out berth is only another hall in an industrial zone and not a port. The advantage is that the new location is on the way from my workplace to my home. This saves me about 40 minutes driving time.

The boat has been lashed to the trailer and is hauled out of the greenhouse

The roller shutter door must be lifted up to the last lamella

Aligning the trailer for coupling to the car

The path to the road is quite narrow

We sailed successful round the corner on the first attempt - without touching the greenhouse

Arrival at the new location

Parking and aligning trailer and boat

Saturday, 5 August 2017

Inserting Screw Ankers for Attaching the Cabin Hatch

This older photo from March shows the bold pattern for fixing the cabin hatch. The holes were drilled to 12 mm and filled with epoxy.

The screws were fastened to the hatch frame together with brass screw ankers. To avoid epoxy impurity on hatch frame or window I protected vulnerable areas with tape and plastic foil.

Detail: Screw with brass screw anker. To avoid that the screws stick with the screw anchors, I have lubricated them with vaseline.

The hatch with the fastened screw ankers has been set into the epoxy filled holes.

Detail: Hatch with the fastened screw ankers has been set into the epoxy filled holes.

Hatch frame with screw ankers after epoxy has cured.

Detail: Hatch frame with screw anker after epoxy has cured.

Bore filled-up with epoxy

Tuesday, 1 August 2017

Teak Flooring

Cutted teak strips
First the border is glued
Fitting test before gluing
The teak floor is glued and prepared for jointing
The teak floor after jointing. With grinding I will wait until the painting work is finished  

Saturday, 1 July 2017


The malheur happened when I fastened two of the up to now temporary fixed stanchions with brass anchor bolts. 

In a first step I drilled oversized holes in the sheer-clamp and filled them with epoxy. 

In a second step I screwed the anchor bolts to the stanchion bases for exact positioning. Then I pluged the stanchion bases with the bolt-on anchor bolts into the epoxy-filled holes.
The plan was to remove the screws in a third step after the epoxy has cured enough.
But the plan did not work. The Epoxy was already too strongly hardened when trying to loosen the screws. I had to remove the stainless screws somehow by drilling. But normal HSS drill-bits failed. The drills-bits were blunt after a few turns. After I bought special cobalt drill-bits I had a little sucess.

Now I could remove the stanchion base but how should I remove the glued brass anchor bolt?

I had the idea to build a hole-saw from a piece of steel pipe (outer diameter 10 mm, inner diameter 8 mm). I rasped some tooths to one end of the steel pipe and could sucessfull remove the glued brass anchor bolt.