Saturday, 5 August 2017

Inserting Screw Ankers for Attaching the Cabin Hatch

This older photo from March shows the bold pattern for fixing the cabin hatch. The holes were drilled to 12 mm and filled with epoxy.

The screws were fastened to the hatch frame together with brass screw ankers. To avoid epoxy impurity on hatch frame or window I protected vulnerable areas with tape and plastic foil.

Detail: Screw with brass screw anker. To avoid that the screws stick with the screw anchors, I have lubricated them with vaseline.

The hatch with the fastened screw ankers has been set into the epoxy filled holes.

Detail: Hatch with the fastened screw ankers has been set into the epoxy filled holes.

Hatch frame with screw ankers after epoxy has cured.

Detail: Hatch frame with screw anker after epoxy has cured.

Bore filled-up with epoxy

Tuesday, 1 August 2017

Teak Flooring

Cutted teak strips
First the border is glued
Fitting test before gluing
The teak floor is glued and prepared for jointing
The teak floor after jointing. With grinding I will wait until the painting work is finished  

Saturday, 1 July 2017


The malheur happened when I fastened two of the up to now temporary fixed stanchions with brass anchor bolts. 

In a first step I drilled oversized holes in the sheer-clamp and filled them with epoxy. 

In a second step I screwed the anchor bolts to the stanchion bases for exact positioning. Then I pluged the stanchion bases with the bolt-on anchor bolts into the epoxy-filled holes.
The plan was to remove the screws in a third step after the epoxy has cured enough.
But the plan did not work. The Epoxy was already too strongly hardened when trying to loosen the screws. I had to remove the stainless screws somehow by drilling. But normal HSS drill-bits failed. The drills-bits were blunt after a few turns. After I bought special cobalt drill-bits I had a little sucess.

Now I could remove the stanchion base but how should I remove the glued brass anchor bolt?

I had the idea to build a hole-saw from a piece of steel pipe (outer diameter 10 mm, inner diameter 8 mm). I rasped some tooths to one end of the steel pipe and could sucessfull remove the glued brass anchor bolt.

Saturday, 20 May 2017

Done! The Boat is on the Trailer

The task was easier than expected. Most of the time we needed to reinstall and adjust the supports
This small lifting jack was the hero of the action. With his help we moved the boat from the building supports onto the trailer

1. Initial situation
2. Starboard mudguard, bow-support and midships supports removed from the trailer
3. to 6. Moving the trailer under the jacked boat
7. The trailer has been well positioned under the boat
8. The trailer supports are remounted
9. Done. The boat lies on the trailer. The longitudinal position is perfect. The center of gravity is well positioned so that trailer and boat are perfectly balanced.

Tuesday, 16 May 2017

How do I get the Boat on the Trailer?

 The idea is to shift the trailer under the jacked boat. Therefore the bow support has to be replaced in order to positioning the towing bar of the trailer under the bow.


For replacing the bow support I prepared a girder with sufficient clearance for the trailer below.